Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Roasted Strawberry Tartlets with Homemade Ginger Snap Crust


I don't typically do a whole lot of baking. Why don't I do more baking?? I'm more of a savory kind of person as opposed to sweet (unless it's super-rich, dark, and chocolaty). But, this dessert may just sway me in the other direction. Might make me a baker after all (especially when summer berries are around).

I love when a recipe that I've conjured up in my head actually comes out as planned.  Have had my share of kitchen disasters, but this time, I must say total success. I know yummy doesn't really add anything to the conversation, doesn't describe the flavors, but what the heck, this is one yummy dessert.

It all started with the strawberries and grew from there. I knew that I wanted to roast the strawberries in the oven with a little brown sugar, balsamic vinegar, and fortified wine (in this case Madeira, since that's what I had on hand, but Marsala, sherry, or port would be equally good). Initially was thinking (okay, dreaming) about a dark chocolate flourless cake and spooning the roasted strawberries on top. But, these tartlets seemed a more spring-like and a bit on the lighter side, a little less decadent (but there will be a chocolate flourless cake in the future).

Next, I needed a crust for my tartlets. Butter crust? Not exactly what I had in mind. I know, a ginger snap crust, perfect; spice things up a bit. You can certainly use store bought ginger snaps, or, if feeling adventurous, make your own. These ginger snaps are homemade using three forms of ginger -- fresh, ground, and crystallized -- with a touch of cardamom and clove, which makes for one spicy cookie. It all works really well together, from the ginger snap crust, to the vanilla cream filling, to the roasted strawberries on top.


Bake 13 minutes for slightly chewy cookies or 15 minutes for more crisp cookies...


Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Scafata: Umbrian Fava Bean Stew with Poached Duck Eggs



Fava beans have arrived!!!

If you've never had fresh favas, they are nothing like their dried counterparts. In the raw, they are completely tender. Melt in your mouth tender. Almost buttery. Nothing really compares to fresh fava beans. Was surprised and delighted to see bushels full at the farmers' market this past weekend. I quickly snatched up a few pounds, as I had the perfect recipe in mind, filed away for this very [perfect] occasion.

Scafata is an Umbrian Fava Bean Stew. Scafata translates into "hull", which refers to the removing of the outer shell of the fava bean. It is Italy on a plate. It is spring on a plate. It is simply divine.

I can't think of a better way to celebrate the flavors of spring -- favas, English peas, baby artichokes, spring onions, Italian greens, mint, and basil -- simmered in white wine, olive oil, and garlic until tender. All topped with poached duck (or chicken) eggs. Simple and rustic. If you have access to these ingredients, this is a dish I highly recommend trying.  A perfect Sunday brunch, maybe the perfect Sunday brunch. 


Scafata = Umbrian Fava Bean Stew


Prepping fava beans is not difficult, just takes a little time and patience. First, you must remove the beans from their pods. Second, blanch the beans to soften for easy removal of their outer shell. Third, peel off the outer shell (the beans slide right out after they've been blanched) to reveal its bright-green, tender bean. It involves a few steps, but totally worth the effort. And, they're only around for a few months (typically June and July in the Washington, D.C., area ), so get them while you can, as they will quickly disappear (and then you will be very sad; okay, I will be very sad).


Baby artichokes also take a little prepping, but as with the fava beans, they are not difficult to prepare. First, remove the tough outer leaves until you get to the light-green-yellow tender inner leaves. Second, cut off and discard the dark and medium green tops of remaining leaves. Third, cut off and discard the stem. Finally, with a pairing knife or vegetable peeler, cut off (or peel) and discard any remaining tough parts around the stem. Rub with lemon or place the artichokes in lemon water (2:1 ratio water to lemon juice) to prevent browning, until ready to be used.

This is a nice post with pictures of each step of the artichoke cleaning process.


Monday, May 28, 2012

Beets, Beet Greens, and Masa Crepes


This was my first time making masa (corn) crepes, but certainly not my last. Really enjoyed the process -- ladling the batter, swirling the pan to get them as thin as possible, flipping them, and then stacking 'em up -- like a well-oiled machine, I quickly found my rhythm. Rather therapeutic, in fact.

The filling -- beets and beet greens. I never get overly excited about beets. Like them, tolerate them, am a bit indifferent to them. Really, how does one get excited about beets? Despite my indifference, I usually find myself with beets on hand, hiding in the back of the refrigerator amidst the more desirable vegetables that tend to get used up first. Thus, am always trying to conjure up ways to liven up beets a bit, give them a little pizzazz.

I started with masa crepes, beets, and the beet greens. Hmm, it needs a sauce to tie it all together. Something kind of spicy to balance the sweetness of the beets. How about a guajillo salsa? Guajillo chiles tend to be medium in heat. They produce a deep red sauce that is lightly fruity, a little smoky, with berry undertones. Next, pickled red onions (for a bit of acidity), feta cheese (because life if better with a little cheese), and topped with toasted pumpkin seeds for much needed crunch.


Thoughts of food constantly flood my brain. Am always thinking about combinations and pairings -- maybe this would be good with that or how about incorporating a little bit of... This usually occurs while out on a long run or walk. There's good reason for that:

According to Gretchen Reynold's new book, exercise (as little as going for a walk) improves your ability to think at all ages and way into your 80s. It actually changes the structure of your brain -- increases the ability to make new brain cells and increases the volume in the brain where you process memories.

To sum it up: Exercise keeps you young, physically and mentally. Exercise gets the creative juices flowing, which in turn can lead to dishes that will make your mouth sing.


I like to boil the beets (skins and all) until pretty tender, smash them flat, and then crisp them up in a pan with a little olive oil, salt, pepper, and fresh thyme.


So there you go, masa crepes, beets and beet greens, pickled onions, guajillo salsa, toasted pumpkin seeds, and feta cheese -- a savory crepe with all the fixins'. There are many steps, but you can accomplish them in stages. Prepare the pickled onions and toasted guajillo salsa in advance. They taste even better after a day or two. Just reheat the salsa before serving, adding more water if needed to thin it out a bit.


Friday, May 25, 2012

En Papillote: Halibut in Parchment with Spring Vegetables

There's a time for slow-braised dishes (stews that take hours to develop flavor) and a time for quick and easy meals. There's room for both in your cooking repertoire.

Today's world is focused on quick and easy meals.  Nothing wrong with quick and easy, provided that flavor is not compromised in the name of convenience. En papillote satisfies all of these demands (and more). In the time it takes to microwave a frozen dinner, you can have take pride in having prepared a restaurant-quality dish. As an added bonus, everything is wrapped in paper, which makes clean-up a snap (as much as I love to cook, washing dishes is a pain).

En Papillote (pah-pee-YOHT), a French-cooking technique in which food is baked inside a wrapper, typically parchment paper. The steam keeps the meat, poultry, fish, and/or vegetables super moist. When food is sealed in paper, it cooks in its own juices. In this preparation, olive oil and a crisp white wine (along with fresh herbs -- basil and thyme) were used to produce an aromatic, light and refreshing sauce. For a little more richness, you can add a pat of butter in lieu of or in addition to the olive oil.

Halibut's delicate, clean flavor and firm texture are a perfect canvas for the fresh herbs and spring vegetables. That being said, you can use just about any firm white fish (such as cod, snapper, sea bass) or even salmon. The variations are endless...


Use whatever vegetables are in season or readily available. Today -- summer squash, asparagus, shallots, and cherry tomatoes. Ditto for the herbs.


This technique is so simple: 1) slice vegetables thin and arrange on parchment paper, 2) drizzle with liquid (olive oil and wine), 3) place fish on top, 4) season with sea salt and black pepper, fresh herbs, and a little more liquid, 5) wrap in parchment, 5) place on baking sheet, and 6) bake in oven (12 to13 minutes).

Really, does it get much easier than this?



To accompany the fish, I roasted squash in the oven, about 35 to 40 minutes at 400 degrees, until browned. If you don't have the time, skip the roasted squash, and prepare a simple salad or quick saute of greens instead.


Had a bunch of left over basil, so I made a little basil oil to drizzle over the fish and roasted squash; ties it all together quite nicely.


Monday, May 21, 2012

Strawberry Mint Soup with Yuzu and Vanilla Ice Cream



I keep lists -- ideas of what I want to cook/bake/make next -- but then I can't remember where I last left my list and am forced to start anew (am such a scatterbrain, just like my dad). Have now updated my list, heavily influenced by what's available this week at the farmers' market.

This is such a fun time of the year to cook. Mother nature is hard at work, making the task at hand even easier. Each week something new comes into season, making its debut, while other ingredients fade slowly into the distance, not to be heard from again until the following season. That's the beauty of eating seasonally, appreciating fruits and vegetables at their peak; it doesn't get much better than that. Ramps and morels have come and gone (so sad, see you next year); fresh peas are making their debut, while asparagus is everywhere you look. Patiently awaiting heirloom tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, (non-GMO) corn, peaches, and other summer berries. Each week, the wheels start turning, thinking about new and unique ways to highlight the best of what local farmers work so hard to grow.

This week, strawberries are in full swing. A sea of strawberries....


Sampled just about every berry at all the farmers' market this past weekend, and these were the winners -- sweet, juicy, and oh so flavorful!  Besides just popping them into your mouth, how else can these berries be enjoyed? I don't want to do too much with them, as they are great on their own.

Came across this great, simple recipe for strawberry mint soup with yuzu from a chef demo by Jaime Montes De Oca, Jr (from Zentan). Yuzu is a tart Japanese fruit which tastes like a cross between a grapefruit and a mandarin orange. If you can't find yuzu, you can substitute with a blend of grapefruit, lemon, and/or mandarin orange juice. Simple and refreshing -- a bit sweet, tart, and salty (just a smidge) -- with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top (mint chocolate chip gelato would also do the trick).


Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Chilled Pea Soup


I've had my eye on a Vitamix for quite some time and finally took the plunge this past weekend. I had a hard time getting over the sticker shock (it's a blender after all), but I love it. It's by far one of the best kitchen appliances I've purchased -- how did I live without it for so long?  I immediately took it out of the box and have not stopped using it ever since. Made a lovely Mexican pumpkin [pipiĆ”n] seed sauce yesterday. On several previous attempts, my pumpkin sauce never came out quite right; could never get it as smooth as I wanted -- always a bit too lumpy. This time, incredibly smooth and velvety, drizzled over a piece of grilled salmon, made for one tasty dinner (will be posting soon).

Today, I made a simple chilled pea soup -- light and refreshing and a perfect dish on a sunny spring day. You can use fresh or frozen peas. Normally I would choose fresh over frozen peas (texturally I prefer fresh peas, frozen peas are a bit too mushy for my liking). But, the frozen peas are actually perfect for this soup, since it all eventually goes into the blender.

For a special occasion, you can jazz up the soup with a little jumbo lump crab meat (preferably blue crab). What can I say, I'm biased (am a Marylander) --  blue crabs are the best. Today, just garnished with a few peas, fresh mint, lemon zest, and a drizzle of yogurt.


You can prepare ahead of time and have it waiting for you chilled in the refrigerator. All you have to do is portion, garnish, and enjoy.


Friday, May 11, 2012

Asparagus with Cacao Nibs, Chile Powder, and Prosciutto

Asparagus and prosciutto are a classic pair. Chiles and chocolate (cacao) go hand in hand.  Asparagus, prosciutto, chiles, and cacao on the same plate? This may sound like a strange combination, but it all works together. Really!

The cacao and chile powders are infused in the oil. The cacao adds a bit of bitterness and a nice crunch. The assortment of ground chiles [ancho, chipotle, and gaujillo] add hints of fruitiness and smokiness, and a pleasing touch of heat. Don't leave off the prosciutto, which provides a nice amount of salinity, and ties the flavors together.
 

Cacao = Food of the Gods


I like to trace food back to its origins. In my humble opinion, it is important to understand the connection between food and from where it comes. Chocolate's origins do not trace back to Hershey, PA, but instead to the Theobroma cacao (pronounced ca-cow) tree. On the tree grows the cacao pod. When you open a cacao pod, you find cacao fruit and seeds. Cacao beans (cocoa beans) are the purest, most natural form of chocolate. All chocolate comes directly from these beans. In its most raw form, cacao packs a punch, both nutritionally and taste-wise (albeit, on the bitter side, when raw).


I love the combination of ancho, chipotle and guajillo chiles; each brings something different to the table:

Ancho = dried poblano chile = fruity, raisin-like
Chipotle =
red jalapeƱo peppers that have been slowly wood-smoked = deep, smoky flavor
Guajillo =
rich, smoky, and complex -- mildly hot

Top (guajillo); Bottom Right (ancho); Bottom Left (chipotle)

Try to get the slender asparagus stalks if you can, as they are considerably more tender.


Wednesday, May 9, 2012

A Twist on Moules et Frites: Mussel Omelet with Kohlrabi Fries


A twist on moules et frites (mussels and fries)...the twist -- the mussels are incorporated into the omelet and the fries are not made from potatoes, but rather kohlrabi. A truly farm to fork meal -- just about everything came from the farmers' markets, well, except for the mussels, olive oil, and the wine (although, they do make a fair amount of wine in Virginia -- note to self: Try some local Cabernet France and Viognier). The purple flowers are chive blossoms, both edible and aesthetic.

The mussel omelet came about after one of those midweek conversations that usually goes something like this: "What do you want to do for dinner? Not sure, you?" After tossing around half a dozen ideas, neither of us able to come to agreement, we finally settled on a mussel omelet. I've had renditions of mussels and eggs at Thai restaurants. The mussels add a nice brininess to the omelet. I added fresh tarragon, which pairs really well with eggs. It's a quick and easy dish that's going into the weekday rotation.

I discovered kohlrabi not long ago at one of the local DC farmers' markets. Kohlrabi is German in origin -- Kohl meaning cabbage and Rabi meaning turnip -- Cabbage Turnip. It's a member of the Brassica family (along with cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and kale). Kohlrabi has been described as having a taste and texture similar to broccoli stem, but maybe just slightly sweeter. It has a nice crisp to it. Typically, I've sliced it thin and added it to a green salad for crunch. Read that you can roast kohlrabi in the oven and make kohlrabi "fries", which immediately appealed -- a new and unusual way to showcase this rather obscure vegetable. A side of aioli for dipping brings it all together. 

So, next time you come across kohlrabi, grab some and give it a try. It has many more uses. Check out this post for more suggestions.


Just steam the mussels in a little water and cover until they just open. Remove the mussels from their shells and whisk into the eggs. Salt, pepper, fresh herbs, voila...doesn't get much easier than that.




Saturday, May 5, 2012

Polpette di Sarde (Sardine Balls) in Spicy Tomato Sauce

Most days I have a hard time concentrating. Find myself daydreaming about travel, yearning to pack my bags, head straight to the international terminal, and hop on a flight -- destination: some place far away. Last summer I found myself in Sicily -– what an adventure. Reminiscing, I walked over to my (ever expanding) bookcase and began flipping through a Sicilian cookbook -- La Cucina Siciliana di Gangivecchio (Recipes from Gangivecchio’s Sicilian Kitchen). I had previously bookmarked a recipe for polpette di sarde (or sardine balls). Sardine balls may sound a bit strange, but they are actually a very traditional Sicilian dish. They have a nice combination of salty and sweet (from the raisins/currants), and a hint of spiciness from the tomato sauce (I added a bit of smoked hot paprika and a pinch of cayenne). I suspect this recipe may not have widespread appeal, but hopefully will entice a few fellow sardine lovers out there.


Inspired to recreate and relive some of my fond memories from last summer, I called around to a few local fish markets and finally tracked down some fresh, Mediterranean sardines. Sardines in hand, was eager to get going. Step one, debone, skin, and dehead the fresh sardines, and then finely chop. Had the fishmonger scale and gut the fish, so all I had to do was debone and skin. I removed the backbone and most of the tiny bones. A few small bones escaped my watchful eye, but that’s okay (the bones are a good source of calcium). Next, skin the sardines. How the heck do you skin a sardine?? They are oily little suckers and hard to get a hold of. I did my best and finely wound up with a little over one cup (was shooting for two cups). Change of plans, now an appetizer instead of a main course. In retrospect, I think you could leave the skin on (all part of the learning experience).

You can serve on some crusty bread (crisped up with a little olive oil in a hot skillet), crostini-style...


Or, over a bowl of spaghetti...


Or, on their own...


"Sardines are very popular in Sicily. Fresh Sardines have a distinct, delicious, bold flavor of the essence of the sea." [from La Cucina Siciliana di Gangivecchilo]



Happy travels and fun adventures in the kitchen...