Sunday, April 29, 2012

Open-Faced Breakfast Torta


This is how I like to start my day. So tasty, actually had one torta for breakfast and a few hours later, a mid-afternoon snack. Although, I must admit, I can't entirely take credit for this scrumptious creation. I've had a torta of the likes at Xoco in Chicago, which I've enjoyed on numerous occasions. Sadly, no longer in Chicago = Sadly, no more Xoco breakfast tortas for moi. Until I return to Chicago, next best thing...make it myself.

I've been wanting to recreate this ever since I left Chicago almost a year ago. Not that it's difficult to make, just was afraid it would not live up to my expectations. Finally, decided to give it a whirl, and...I think Rick [Bayless that is] would give a nod of approval to my version. And really, how can anything with a poached egg on top not be good -- a duck egg to boot -- its yolk, even more thick and creamy than a chicken's egg. 

This torta has layers of flavors. First, there is the layer of mashed black beans with garlic (and a little ground chipotle powder), second, a layer of fire-roasted tomato salsa, third, a poached duck egg (you can easily substitute with a chicken egg), and lastly, topped with chopped cilantro, thinly sliced jalapenos, and feta cheese, all on top a crispy, country baguette. I've also prepared three different salsas/sauces (just because one didn't seem like enough, then two didn't either; three seems just right).

Red = mild, fire-roasted tomato salsa
Green = medium, cilantro-jalapeno sauce
Orange = fiery, fruity habanero sauce (use sparingly, a little goes a long way)

Make one, make them all, or substitute with your favorite salsa.


At 200,000-350,000 scoville units, the habanero packs a punch. But, habaneros are not all about heat, they actually have a nice frutiness to them. A little tid bit -- capsaicin, the compound that gives chiles their heat, has been shown to release endorphins in the body. Eventually, enough are released to create a sensation that can be compared to a "runner's high". Maybe that explains my addiction?


Caution: Use sparingly. You've been warned...


Do ahead: You can make the mashed black beans and salsas ahead of time. Roast the various chiles and enough garlic for each of the salsas in the same pan to save time.

Friday, April 27, 2012

Sorrel and Spring Vegetable Soup with Barley


Sorrel, have you discovered it? Sorrel has a distinct flavor and will surely not be confused with other herbs. At first glance it looks like your ordinary leafy green, but don't be deceived. When you bite in, your taste buds are surprised with a burst of lemony, citrusy, tartness. I like to add a handful to a mixed green salad for a little tanginess. It's also commonly used [in French cooking] to make butter sauces for fish and in soups. Today, I made sorrel soup. I really like soup, especially green soups. I made this winter version a few months back, but today is all about the spring harvest.

In addition to sorrel, there is a small field of greens and assorted vegetables hiding in this soup -- asparagus, spinach, mint, fennel, chives, and onions -- a taste of spring in a bowl. The addition of barley makes it a bit heartier (brown or wild rice would also work). You can also crumble some cheese on top,  feta would be great, and finish with a nice drizzle of good quality olive oil.

It's green leaves, unfortunately, turn a rather drab shade of green when cooked. To spruce it up, I added a few purple garlic chive flowers, toasted pine nuts, and fresh mint leaves If you can get past its color, it's a rather unusual and refreshing soup that really showcases what's in season.


An assortment of spring veggies...


Monday, April 23, 2012

Spring Lamb Shank with Gremolata

Do you like tender, fall off the bone, slow braised lamb? Any objections to lots of flavor with minimal effort? You don't need to spend lots of money at a restaurant to enjoy a restaurant quality meal. You just need good quality ingredients, a little patience, and lots of love.

This is a meal to be enjoyed slowly, to be savored -- one bite of lamby goodness at a time.

 I wish you could smell what is going on in my kitchen...


First, a quick shout out to the farmers in Mount Vernon, Virginia, for raising such high-quality, grass-fed lamb and to Bon Vivant for making such fine farm food available for local dinner tables.

Now, lets get back to the lamb. The shank is the portion of meat around the tibia or shin of the animal. This part of the muscle is heavily worked, which translates into dark, rich meat with lots of flavor. Since these muscles get lots of exercise, they are a bit tougher than other cuts, and must be braised low and slow for several hours, to tenderize, until the meat falls off the bone. Braising meats generally consists of first browning the meat on all sides on the stove top to get a nice crust and then popping it in the oven with some liquid (in this case, white wine and chicken broth) for several hours.

This is a one-pot meal that is incredibly easy to prepare, and even produces its own sauce, no extra work required. Not just any old blah sauce, but a sauce that is packed with flavor -- a bit of sweetness from the onions and carrots, a bit of earthiness from the lamb juices, hints of wine, rosemary, and just a little bit of heat from the chiles to bring it all together. Drizzle it all over the finished lamb and serve with a slice or two of crusty bread to sop up the rest.

You can prepare the gremolata (parsley, lemon zest, and garlic), which takes just a few seconds to toss together, and then just set the timer and wait, patiently, enjoying a glass of wine in the mean time. 



Shank = is the portion of meat around the tibia (shin)



Gremolata = parsley + lemon zest + garlic


Arni = lamb in Greek

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Indian-Spiced "Crepes" with Spicy Cauliflower

Can you guess what this "crepe" is made from?? Hint: It's not made from flour, no eggs either. I know, rather vague, a bit of a mystery...keep reading to find out.


Give up...shall I spill the beans? Or should I say, the black-eyed peas (less commonly known as cow peas), technically, legumes, not peas. Yes, just black-eyed peas, spices, and herbs, that's all -- inspired by Madhur Jaffrey's World Vegetarian cookbook.

I have accumulated a collection of dried beans, lentils, legumes...that have been slowly taking over my pantry, not to mention a dozen or so different types of flours. I have an affinity for the bulk section of my local grocery store. Always find myself grabbing a little of this or that; you never know when you might need some dried beans in a pinch. So, doing a little necessary spring cleaning and organizing of the pantry, and trying to clear things out. Out with the old, in with the new. 

Clockwise from top left (lurking in the pantry): chickpeas, yellow split peas, lima beans, black-eyed peas, scarlet runner beans (bought these brown and black speckled beans simply because I liked the way they looked, but still not sure what I plan to do with them?), black lentils, and, lastly, fava beans.


The black eyed-peas were soaked for 24 hours and then processed with a few spices and herbs and turned into the "crepes" as pictured below -- quite a transformation.

I prepared a mildly spicy cauliflower curry with onion, tomatoes, and fresh peas that pairs nicely with the crepes. Next time I might even go a bit spicier, with a little more jalapeno, but that's entirely up to you and your affinity for heat. I like things on the spicy side -- bring on the heat. A dollop of creamy Greek yogurt on top helps to balance the heat from the chiles.

Makes for a nice, simple, and flavorful lunch or light dinner.


Monday, April 16, 2012

Sunday Brunch: Spring Frittata


This is my favorite time of year -- the winter is far behind, the days are getting longer, and the weather pleasurably temperate. Slowly, and with patience, we are presented with the flavors of the season.

The weeks seem to fly by, again it is Sunday, and what better way to enjoy Sunday than with a leisurely brunch. What immediately came to mind this Sunday was a frittata -- like an omelet, but open-faced and finished in the oven. You can add just about anything you wish to your frittata, the options are endless. However, this time around I didn't have to search far for my ingredients -- all from the farmers' market, all local and seasonal. Beautiful, vibrant cherry tomatoes in shades of red, orange, and yellow pop with color. Sweet, tender green and purple asparagus quickly lured me in, lemony sorrel and beloved wild ramps are hard to pass up. I'm like a kid in a candy store; but this candy store is filled only with nature's inherent sweetness.

Let the season and what's readily available be your guide. Add cheese (such as feta, chevre, or fresh ricotta), smoked salmon, just about any and every type of vegetable, fresh herbs, sausage or chorizo or salumi...you really can't go wrong.

Of note: Traditionally, a frittata is started in a skillet on the stovetop and then finished under the broiler to crisp up the top. Unfortunately, my oven does not have a broiler up top, so I improvised and made the frittata entirely on the stovetop. Just did the plate over the skillet method, flipped it, and then slid it back into the skillet to brown the other side. Worked just as well as a broiler, and as you can see it got nice and golden brown.




I oven roasted the tomatoes low and slow (300 degrees for about 1 hour, 15 minutes), tossed with olive oil, a little fresh thyme, salt and pepper (you can wrap a head of garlic in foil, drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper) and roast along with the tomatoes until tender...


The asparagus went into the frittata, while the ramps were enjoyed on the side -- just chop off the roots, clean, and saute the leaves and bulbs whole, with just a bit of olive, salt and pepper. Simple and divine.


Sorrel adds a nice burst of citrus...


And of course, brunch is even better with a glass of rosé...


Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Romesco with Roasted Vegetables



So excited to see asparagus and spring onions again -- welcome back. Especially love the skinny, spindly, tender asparagus stalks. Have already begun to compile a list of ideas for asparagus. First up, roasted vegetables with romesco sauce. In Spain (in the province of Tarragona in Catalonia to be exact) there is a popular gastronomical fiesta, held between the end of winter and March/April called the calçotada, where friends and family gather to celebrate the sweet onion known as calçot. After harvest, the onions, which look like baby leeks, are grilled, then wrapped in newspaper to steam for a bit. The blackened leaves are peeled back and then the calcots are dipped in salvitxada or romesco sauce. Yum!  Love the idea of celebrating the harvest.


Back to the romesco. Romesco is a Catalan sauce. There are many variations, but typically it's made with nuts, usually almonds and hazelnuts, toasted bread, garlic, roasted peppers and tomatoes, and a few other ingredients. The nyora chile is traditionally used in romesco sauce; however, since this chile is not readily available (at least not in my part of the world), I substituted mild ancho chiles, which impart fruity (raisiny), smoky flavors -- while some may not consider this "authentic", in my opinion, a suitable and tasty addition.

Romesco is a sauce with depth of flavor and big personality. Today I paired it with roasted cauliflower, asparagus, and green onions. While great with roasted vegetables (better still on the grill), it's uses do not stop there. Try it with seafood (shrimp or sea scallops), grilled fish, grilled meat, as a sandwich spread, or enjoy on its own on top a piece of crusty bread. I encourage you to give it a try. You won't be disappointed. In fact, you will probably wish you made a bigger batch, as it's bound to disappear rather quickly.


After 30 minutes in the oven, your tomatoes should look like this. The skins should peel right off at this point. The tomatoes and their juices go straight into the food processor, along with the rest of the ingredients.


Monday, April 9, 2012

Lamb Sausage and Rapini Pizza


Seems like as good a day as any to have lamb -- a beautiful, sunny, spring Sunday. While I have a lamb shank defrosting in the fridge and Diane Kochilas's recipe (form The Glorious Foods of Greece) for lamb stew with wild greens in an egg-lemon sauce -- arni me horta avgolemeno -- bookmarked in my mind (coming soon), today was all about lamb sausage and pizza.

I love lamb. It's strong, earthy, and exceptionally flavorful. While the rapini, feta, and fresh rosemary were all yummy additions to this pizza, lamb was the shining star. The rapini was sauteed in the same pan as the lamb, which imparted those unmistakable lamb flavors. The crust soaked up the natural oil from the lamb sausage -- more lamby deliciousness. And really, what pairs better with lamb than fresh rosemary. Each bite made me ponder, Why don't I prepare lamb more often? I've just scratched the surface with the lamb sausage -- there's roast leg/shank of lamb, rack of lamb, lamb chops...

On another note, decided to try out Saveur's no-knead pizza dough this time around. Appears to be comparable to other variations I've tried (and you save yourself a few minutes of kneading). Although, I don't mind kneading, it's kind of like a mini upper-arm workout. Unfortunately, the little oven in my rental apartment doesn't have a top broiler element (it's on the bottom, what good is that??), so I couldn't get the crust as dark as I wanted. It still tasted quite good -- crispy and chewy in all the right places, but missing those nice charred parts. How nice would it be to have a wood burning oven...oh, to dream.


Monday, April 2, 2012

Spring Potato Salad


This is not your typical potato salad. Feel as though I can start just about every post with, "This is not your typical..."; I like to do things a bit different (not just with cooking, but pretty much every aspect of my life) and have sought the road less traveled.

Peas? Pesto?? Quail Eggs??? Sorrel? Not your typical potato salad by any means. No mayonnaise, aioli, or mustard to be found in this version. Wanted something a bit lighter, ingredients to showcase spring's early bounty. Actually, it all started with the sorrel. Picked up a few small bunches at the farmers' market the other day. Not enough to make a soup or sauce, but enough to chiffonade (i.e., to cut into long thin strips) and add to a salad. Already have a sorrel soup bookmarked for when I can get my hands on a larger bunch.

Sorrel (as pictured below), an herb (and member of the buckwheat family, along with rhubarb, who knew?), has a bit of an unassuming appearance. At first glance it looks like most every other green, but once you take a bite, you are bound to be surprised by its unique, lemony tartness. Sorrel typically makes its appearance in mid to late May when the leaves are at their most tender and least acidic.

Next, the pesto. Had some Thai basil and mint, from my local Asian market, which were blended with toasted pine nuts (or substitute with your favorite nut -- such as walnuts), garlic, and a good dose of extra virgin olive oil. Quickly blanched fresh peas and soft-boiled the quail eggs to round out the salad. Oh, and of course, (petite) potatoes; how could I forget, it is a potato salad after all. 


Speckled quail eggs, how cute are these? I was going for more of a soft-boiled egg, on the verge of runny -- so that the yolks combine with the pesto to create a flavorful sauce. Unfortunately, I left the quail eggs in the water 20-30 seconds too long.


Thereafter, I did a little experiment. If you place the eggs in simmering water for exactly 2 minutes, you will have perfectly soft-boiled eggs (whites completely set, but yolks still runny). Just 30 seconds later and the yolks begin to set; and by 3 minutes, they will be completely hard-boiled. A fairly narrow window, so be sure to keep a watchful eye.


I love fresh peas. Just screams Hello spring! Where have you been the past several months? Welcome back.

Fresh English peas (left); Sorrel (right)