Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Black Chocolate Stout Bread Pudding


I made an impulse purchase the other day, and found myself with a 4-pack of Brooklyn Brewery Black Chocolate Stout. Not really sure what possessed me to buy beer, as I'm not much of beer drinker these days. Maybe just got caught up in the holiday festivities; this beer only comes around once a year, in the winter season, and then it's gone in the blink of an eye. If you've never tried a chocolate stout, it's probably unlike any beer you've had before. More of a dessert in a bottle, compared to your typical watered down lager.  Rather, this stout abounds with hints of dark chocolate, roasted coffee, and dark fruit undertones. If you are a fan of coffee and dark chocolate, then you are sure to like this beer. Definitely a sipping beer to be enjoyed on a cool evening in front of a toasty fireplace (with a good book). Despite the lack of a roaring fireplace, I cracked one open and thoroughly savored each and every sip.

Then the wheels started churning. Hmm...this beer would be great in a dessert. Patrick suggested a bread pudding and the rest is history. Gathered a few key ingredients and got to work. A crispy French baguette adds a nice texture to the creamy custard, which is comprised of stout, dark bitter chocolate (used 72% cacao), eggs, cream, and pure vanilla extract. I especially like that this dessert is not overly sweet, and the chocolate stout flavor shines through. Top with homemade whipped cream, a few shavings of chocolate, a sprig of fresh mint, and you and the bread pudding are sure to be big hits.





Black Chocolate Stout Bread Pudding
makes (6) individual ramekins or (1) 9 by 9 baking pan
1 1/2 cups chocolate stout beer
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 cup dark chocolate, chopped (used 72 percent cacoa)
4 large eggs
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
4 cups French bread with crust, cut into 1-inch cubes 
butter, for greasing the ramekins or baking pan
Whipped cream, for serving
few sprigs fresh mint 

Note: I like my bread pudding a little less sweet. If you like it sweeter, increase the sugar to 1/2 cup.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. 

Bring the stout, cream, and 1/3 cup sugar to a simmer in a medium saucepan, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat. Add 1/2 cup chopped chocolate and whisk until melted and smooth. Set aside to cool. 

Whisk the eggs and vanilla in a bowl to blend. Gradually whisk in the cooled chocolate mixture. Place the bread cubes in a large bowl and pour the custard on top, making sure to soak all the bread. Butter the individual ramekins (or baking pan). Sprinkle some of the remaining chopped chocolate in the bottom of each ramekin, and spoon the bread and custard mixture into each. Sprinkle a little sugar over each ramekin.

Place the ramekins inside a roasting pan in the oven and pour enough hot water into the roasting pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the custard thickens and the center is just set, about 45 to 50 minutes. Serve warm with whipped cream and finely chopped chocolate. Garnish with a sprig of fresh mint.


Happy New Year! Cheers, Yamas, Salute, Proost, Cin Cin, L’chaim...

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Spinach, Rainbow Chard, and Feta Soup


After a long weekend of holiday eating, including a very rich and tasty Boeuf Bourguignon (aka Beef Burgandy) along with an assortment of cookies, chocolates, and other sweets, something light, refreshing, and homey sounded like a nice alternative. Although a (Brooklyn Brewery) black chocolate stout bread pudding is on my to-do list.

I came across this soup in the January 2012 Bon Appetit that I picked up in the airport, while waiting for my plane to arrive (a quick stop in Chicago before heading to Detroit). Did I mention that I got up at 3:30 a.m. for a 6:00 a.m. flight that ended up being delayed two hours. Despite the hassles of airline travel, it's always nice to get back to Chicago, even if only for 24 hours. A quick fun-filled trip of eating and shopping--loaded up on spices at the Spice House (including some intoxicating smelling truffle salt and my staple go to spice, smoked hot paprika); and of course, a visit to Chicago would not be complete without a stop at one of my favorite Chicago restaurants/wine bars.

This recipe was inspired by London chef, Yotam Ottolenghi, known for his inventive, modern vegetarian dishes. Tweaked the original recipe just a tad. Used a combination of rainbow chard and winter spinach. The spinach by way of Michigan, from a great little food-coop in Ann Arbor. This time of year, spinach is at its prime--large, deeply green leaves, with a more robust flavor compared to its summer varietal. Also, cut back on the parsley, substituted dried coriander for nutmeg, and added a few toasted hazelnuts as garnish (toasted pinenuts would be nice too). If you want to add an extra little touch of decadence to the dish, you can sprinkle a bit of truffle salt or oil over the finished soup--yum!



Spinach, Rainbow Chard, and Feta Soup
Adapted from Bon Appetit January 2012
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1/2 pound rainbow chard leaves
1/2 pound spinach leaves
3 1/2 cups vegetable broth, store bought or homemade (recipe below)
1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves, roughly chopped
1/2 cup cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
1/4 cup mint leaves, roughly chopped
1 teaspoons ground dried coriander
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

Suggested Garnishes
Greek yogurt
Feta cheese, crumbled
Toasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped
Toasted pumpkin seeds
Fresh mint leaves
Fresh cilantro leaves
Drizzle of extra virgin olive oil (or truffle oil or olive oil with truffle salt, for a little decadence)
Lemon juice
Coarse sea salt

Heat the oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, until translucent and soft (but not browned), 7 to 8 minutes. Stir in the chard, spinach, broth, parsley, cilantro, mint, and dried coriander. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Stir in the lemon and season with salt and pepper. Puree the soup in a blender or food processor until smooth. Return to the pot. Can prepare ahead of time and rewarm before serving.

Garnish with a spoonful of yogurt, feta cheese, toasted hazelnuts or pumpkin seeds, fresh chopped herbs, squeeze of lemon juice, and /or drizzle of olive oil (or truffle oil) and season with sea salt (or truffle salt).


Vegetable Stock
2 carrots
2 celery stalks
1 leek
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
8 parsley branches
6 thyme sprigs or 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme
2 bay leaves
Sea salt

Wash the vegetables and chop into roughly 1-inch chunks. Heat the oil in a large soup pot. Add the vegetables, garlic, herbs, and cook over high heat for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add 2 teaspoons salt, and 2 quarts cold water (8 cups) and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer uncovered, for 30 minutes. Strain.

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Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Baked Sardines with Fennel and Breadcrumbs



Am always on the hunt for fresh sardines. Every couple of days for the past few months, I've asked my local fish guy "any sardines today?" Predictably, he replies, albeit in a jovial tone, "not today, but we'll be getting some in." After a while I gave up and stopped asking. But, several months later, out of the blue, there they were, fresh Pacific sardines. I was shocked. Picked up a pound for dinner (a steal at $5.99 per pound -- about six sardines).

Sardines. If you couldn't tell from the name of my blog, I love these oily little fish -- plentiful, sustainable, good for your health, and quite tasty. Am constantly thinking about new ways to prepare my favorite little friends. This version is based on a Sicilian classic, pasta con le sarde (pasta with Sardines), prepared with wild fennel that grows all over the island. I took those same flavors, minus the pasta, and baked the sardines in the oven; the sardines are buried under a layer of homemade breadcrumbs mixed with garlic, fennel fronds, ground fennel seeds, and lemon zest. This dish incorporates fennel in three different forms: fennel bulb thinly sliced, fennel fronds (the spiky little leaves), and dried ground fennel seeds, which collectively add a subtle anise-licorice flavor. Depending on where you live, you can forage for wild fennel (in the spring), which has a more pronounced anise flavor (unfortunately, have never seen any in my neck of the woods). 

Sardines are quite photogenic, their little eyes poking out from under the breadcrumbs and fennel fronds.









One thing I'm not particularly fond of are tiny sardine bones. But no worries, you can debone the fish prior to baking (or have your fishmonger do so). It's really quite easy (cleaned and deboned these myself). Once the sardines have been cleaned and gutted, use a pair of kitchen shears to snip the spine closest to the tail.  Next, using a small knife, carefully run the knife under the spine to remove it in one piece.  


Baked Sardines with Fennel and Breadcrumbs
1 to 1 1/4 pounds fresh whole sardines (about 6-8), scaled, gutted, and deboned
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing/drizzling
2/3 cup homemade bread crumbs  (recipe below)

3/4 cup fresh fennel fronds
1 small-medium fennel bulb, thinly sliced (preferably with a mandoline)
1 teaspoon ground fennel seeds
2 garlic cloves, minced
Zest of 1 lemon

Lemon wedges, for serving
Coarse salt and fresh ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

In a medium bowl, stir together the bread crumbs, garlic, fennel fronds, ground fennel seeds, lemon zest, and couple grinds fresh black pepper. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of olive oil over the mixture. Stir to combine.

 
Generously brush a baking dish (used a 14-inch oval) with olive oil. Season the sardine cavities with salt. Place the sardines in the baking dish. Evenly distribute the breadcrumb mixture over the sardines. Place the sliced fennel on top. Bake until the breadcrumbs are golden brown and the fish are cooked through, 18 to 20 minutes. Drizzle with good quality olive oil. Sprinkle with a little sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, and a squeeze of lemon. Enjoy.


Homemade Whole-Wheat Breadcrumbs
3-4 slices of bread (whole wheat, multigrain)--enough to produce 2 cups bread crumbs when roughly chopped in the food processor
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh herbs (such as rosemary, oregano, thyme)
Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. In a large bowl, toss the breadcrumbs with olive oil, fresh herbs, salt, and pepper. Place the breadcrumbs on a baking sheet and toast for about

15 minutes until golden brown (rotate halfway through). Allow the breadcrumbs to cool. Place the breadcrumbs in the food processor and pulse a few times until the breadcrumbs are finely processed. Store in an airtight container.

 I love to prepare a big batch of breadcrumbs and keep them in an airtight container in the fridge, so I always have some on hand.

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Thursday, December 15, 2011

Parsnip and Potato Latkes with Indian-Spiced Yogurt




Parsnips. Any big fans out there?  I've never even tried parsnips until about a month or so ago. Root vegetables, in general, appear to be a bit underappreciated. But, I'm determined to give the lowly root vegetable some love. I also have a new self-imposed rule: each week [at my local farmers' market], to seek out and prepare a dish, using a fruit or vegetable or protein I've never tried before. This week, parsnips; next week possibly celeriac (aka celery root) or maybe kohlrabi? However, at the moment, need to figure out what to do with all my parsnips.

Hmm, decisions, decisions? There's parsnip soup, roasted parsnip [with honey], parsnip puree, even parsnip chips...but what eventually peaked my interest, was parsnip and potato pancakes (or shall I call them latkes), a traditional food eaten during Hanukkah, perfect! To commemorate the miracle of oil [lasting eight days instead of one], one must eat foods fried in oil (preferably olive oil), but of coarse.

Parsnips are in the carrot family, but are more fibrous and starchy and sweeter than carrots. Best to go for the small to medium-sized parsnips. The very large ones tend to get a bit woody on the inside. Unfortunately was not aware of this when I loaded up on parsnips, and went for the largest ones I could find. No problem, just remove the inner fibrous core.When parsnips are cooked, the sugars caramelize, which brings out their inherent sweetness.

Traditionally, potato latkes are served with apple sauce or sour cream. I took a rather different approach, and paired it with an Indian-spiced yogurt with curry leaves, mustard seeds, ginger, curry powder, serrano chile, and a touch of honey. Curry leaves are one of my new favorite finds. Toasting them in oil brings out their flavor. If you can get your hands on some, I highly recommend giving them a try.

Now that I've befriended the parsnip, I'm eager to experiment some more. Perhaps next, parsnip soup?




Parsnip-Potato Pancakes
makes 10 pancakes
1 pound yukon gold potatoes (about 8 small), peeled
1 pound parsnips (about 4 medium), peeled
3/4 cup scallions or chives (thinly sliced)
2 large eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
olive oil for pan-frying

With a box grater, grate the potatoes and parsnips. Squeeze out as much liquid as possible from the grated potatoes. In a large bowl, combine the grated potato, grated parsnip, scallions (or chives), eggs, flour, 2 teaspoons salt, and freshly ground black pepper. Mix well.

Heat a skillet or griddle with a couple tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. When the oil is very hot, spoon about 1/3 cup of the mixture to form a pancake. Flatten down with a spatula (~ 1/2 inch thick). Cook until brown and crispy, about 5 minutes. Flip and cook for another 5 minutes. Serve warm with some Indian-spiced yogurt.

Indian-Spiced Yogurt
1 tablespoon olive oil 
5 curry leaves
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 Serrano chile, seeds removed, finely chopped
1 teaspoon curry powder
1 teaspoon fresh grated ginger
1 cup Greek yogurt
2 teaspoons honey


Heat the oil in a non-stick pan. When hot, add the curry leaves and mustard seeds and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the chilli, curry powder, and ginger, and cook on low heat for 2-3 mins. Remove from the heat and let cool. Stir the cooled spice mix into the yogurt along with the honey. Chill in the refrigerator until you are ready to serve the pancakes. 

Happy Holidays and Happy Eating!

Sunday, December 11, 2011

Swordfish Crudo

 

Enjoyed quite a bit of spada crudo (raw swordfish) while in Sicily this past summer. After strolling through the street markets in Sicily, the below photo coming from a Palermo market, it becomes readily apparent why swordfish is on the menu at almost every restaurant in town. Row after row of vendors selling some of the freshest fish and seafood imaginable. Raw hunks of fish strewn about with loud and gruff men hacking away with rather large knives, the streets crammed with shoppers, tourists, and a few mopeds whizzing by. Stumbled upon this site that sums it up very nicely, "A Palermitan street market is a cacophony of sights, sounds, and scents." This is not a site typically seen in the States and one of the things I love so much about traveling. Some may be lured by monuments and museums, but it's the humble street market that draw me in. If only I had a kitchen when traveling to experiment with some of these treasures. Then again, perhaps it is best to initially sample local dishes prepared by local chefs or home cooks.

That's how I discovered spada crudo. Had several variations along the way, all very simply prepared. This particular version incorporates lemon, mint, and pistachios, and personifies the flavors of the Sicilian landscape.


Crudo the Italian version of sashimi. Technically raw, but don't be alarmed about consuming raw fish just yet. The swordfish is sliced very thin and then bathed in a marinade of lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil (this is one dish where the quality of the olive oil really makes a difference). The lemon juice, an acid, acts to "cook" and tenderize the fish. Just make sure your fish is the freshest possible. Fish should not have a "fishy" smell; this means that its been sitting for a while. If you can't find swordfish, you can substitute with other meaty fish, such as wahoo, tuna, halibut, or whatever is local in your neck of the woods. A simple appetizer to prepare (there is no cooking involved), a clean, light, and refreshing way to start a meal. Recently served this along with salmon tartare, a piece of sesame seed encrusted seared tuna, and a big green salad -- feast of the three fishes.

Note: according to Seafood Watch, US swordfish is a good alternative, while imported swordfish should be avoided. 



Spada Crudo (Raw Swordfish)
1 pound swordfish, thinly sliced, about 1/8 inch thick
Juice of a lemon
Good quality extra-virgin olive oil
Mint to taste, thinly sliced
Pistachios to taste, roughly chopped
Zest of half a lemon, chopped
Coarse sea salt

Preparing the Fish
Wrap the fish tightly in plastic and put it in the freezer for about an hour. After an hour, check to see if it is hard, but not solid. When the fish is hard, take it out of the freezer, and slice across the grain with your sharpest knife, as thin as possible (about 1/8 inch thick). Do not pound the sliced pieces to make them flatter; you want crudo, not carpaccio.

Lay the slices of fish on a large serving platter. Squeeze lemon all over the fish. Drizzle with plenty of extra virgin olive oil. Garnish with mint, pistachios, and lemon zest. Sprinkle with coarse sea salt.

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Kabocha Squash and Pistachio Filo Rolls



This time of year makes me think of winter squash. While I dread winter, I do have a thing for winter squash varietals. My favorites: kabocha, kuri, and hubbard. Find myself bringing one home every time I go to the market, and have amassed a nice little collection on my countertop. Sometimes when I'm feeling ambitious, I'll run to the market (it's only a few miles away), but then have to trek back, balancing my squash. I run there, but walk back -- in case you were wondering. Can't imagine trying to run while carrying a squash, not to mention the strange glances doing so might attract. One problem, I've been buying squash faster than I can conjure up new and interesting ideas regarding how to use them . I tend to gravitate towards savory dishes, but once in a while I have a bit of a sweet tooth, but not over the top super syrupy sweet; rather just a hint of sweetness.

This pastry is based on a traditional Bulgarian dessert called Tikvenik -- made from pumpkin and walnuts wrapped in filo.I tweaked it a bit and substituted pistachios for the walnuts, and winter squash puree for the pumpkin. Filo can be a bit tricky to work with since it tends to dry out pretty quickly when exposed to air. To prevent from drying out, lay a piece of parchment on your countertop. Unroll the filo very gently and lay flat onto the parchment paper. Lay another parchment piece over top of the exposed filo, and place a damp kitchen towel on top of the parchment paper. This will prevent the filo from drying out while you are working with it. And don't worry if a sheet gets torn, you can patch it back together when you brush with oil or butter, no one will know the difference.

These pastries are best when they first come out of the oven and the filling is warm and the filo is flaky and crispy. As they sit, the filo will soften, but they can be reheated in the oven and will return to their crispy and flaky state.


Kabocha Squash and Pistachio Filo Rolls
1 3-pound squash (such as Kabocha, Hubbard, or Kuri)
1 cup brown sugar
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 cup pistachios, coarsely chopped
1 package (1 pound) filo dough
Melted butter (or oil or mix of the two) for brushing the filo
Powdered sugar

Preheat the oven to 400 F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper.

To prepare the squash, peel and cube, and then steam until tender. Using an immersion blender or food processor, blend to a smooth puree. Add the brown sugar and cinnamon to the squash puree. Can be prepared in advance.

Take one sheet of filo and brush with butter. Fold in half. Spoon ~ 2 tablespoons filling in the bottom of the sheet (leaving about 1 inch on the sides). Roll once or twice and then fold in the right side, then the left side. Continue to roll. Just before you get to the end, brush the remaining filo with a little butter. Place the roll on the parchment-lined cookie sheet and brush the top with a little butter. Sprinkle the top with some chopped pistachios. Repeat with the remaining squash. Bake for about 40 minutes, until golden brown. Place the filo rolls on a baking rack to cool. When cool dust with a little powdered sugar.


A shower of powdered sugar...used my left hand to sprinkle the powdered sugar and my  right hand to snap the photo (a tripod would have come in handy).


Saturday, December 3, 2011

Eggs Baked in Filo with Gomen and Berbere Oil



Is it filo or fillo or phyllo?

A little cup made with filo and stuffed with greens (this batch gomen--Ethiopian collard greens), an egg, and topped with a little (or lot) of berbere oil.  A great little savory start to the day.  This was a bit of an experiment, so was not entirely sure how they would come out -- kitchen disaster or keeper?

I'm happy to report that they came out just as imagined.  I love when that happens; although, I've had my share of disasters in the kitchen too.  Like when I tried to make baba ganoush, and nearly set my apartment on fire trying to get the eggplant nice and charred and smokey; uhm, do not place charred eggplant on parchment paper in the oven at high temperatures, it catches on fire.  And, do not place hot pyrex under cold water, it shatters into a zillion little pieces all over your kitchen.  And the octopus terrine I had such high hopes for (love octopus, but in a terrine it just didn't work out); well, lets just say I think I can scratch that one off my list.  But, luckily, these are the exceptions rather than the norm.

But I love the way these filo cups came out.  Baked until the eggs just set and are still a bit runny.  When you break the yolk with your fork, it oozes all over and mixes with the berbere oil to create a creamy sauce with a bit of spiciness.  Berbere a mildly spicy blend of spices -- including chiles, paprika, fenugreek, ginger powder, onion powder, cardamom, coriander, nutmeg, clove, cinnamon, allspice -- adds a depth of flavor, and a little tingle of heat on the back of your throat.

Picked up a huge bunch (weighing in at close to 1 1/2 pounds) of collard greens for the gomen from my local farmers' market; not like those measly little bunches you see in the grocery store (at twice the cost).  The farmer told me they were extra good since they went through a frost.  Not sure exactly what that adds, but I agree...they were really tasty.

I have quite a bit of filo left over.  Hmm, what else can I stuff into these little cups??

Berbere Oil (berbere + olive oil)


Filo Cups
6 servings
6 sheets of filo
6 eggs
1 batch Gomen (recipe can be found here)
Olive oil (for brushing each layer of filo)
Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper
Berbere oil (refer to recipe below)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.  Brush generously each cup (of a 6-cup non-stick large muffin pan) with olive oil.

Lay one sheet of filo flat on the counter.  Brush the sheet with olive oil to lightly coat and fold in half. Brush again with olive oil and fold in half.  Invert a 6-61/2 inch bowl over the filo and cut a circle with your knife (it's okay if its not exact or slightly larger).  Gently press into the muffin pan.  Repeat with the remaining five sheets of filo.  Bake for 5 minutes or until golden brown.  Remove from the oven.

Spoon the gomen into each cup.  Make sure they are nice and packed with lots of greens. Crack an egg into each cup on top of the gomen.  Season with salt and pepper.  Bake in the oven for about 15 minutes until the eggs just set and are still a bit runny.  With a butter knife, carefully pop each filo cup out of the muffin pan.  Drizzle with berbere oil.

Berbere Oil
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon berbere spice mix 

Combine the berbere with the olive oil. Whisk well to combine.