Monday, October 31, 2011

Happy Halloween: Homemade Caramel Apples


Just a quick post...

In honor of the Halloween festivities, decided to make some homemade caramel apples.


This was my first attempt at making caramel, and I have to report that it was a fun and easy process.  Used nothing more than pure cane sugar and cream (added a bit of sea salt -- purely optional), that's all. Really cool to watch the sugar go through the caramelization process and turn into, well, caramel (food science in action).

The apple in the photo, which also happens to be my new favorite variety, is called Black Twig. It's an old variety, dating back to the 1830s when it was first introduced near Fayetteville, Tennessee.  Very crisp with a balanced sweet and tart profile. Pairs very nicely with my homemade salted caramel sauce.



Homemade Caramel Sauce
½ cup sugar
1 cup heavy cream
Pinch of sea salt (optional)

In large heavy bottom saucepan, heat the sugar over medium heat undisturbed until it begins to melt. Then stir constantly with a wooden spoon until it is completely melted and turns reddish-brown, about 8 to 10 minutes (if sugar begins to bubble vigorously, remove from heat until it comes down). Lower the heat and add ½ cup of cream. Stir until the cream is completely incorporated. Stir in the remaining ½ cup of cream. Cook and stir until the sauce is thickened but still pourable about 10 minutes. Add a nice-sized pinch of sea salt and stir to incorporate. Drizzle the hot caramel sauce over the apples slices.


And last but not least, some spooky photographs from the neighborhood...










Happy Halloween!

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Oven-Roasted Potatoes with King Oyster Mushrooms




My latest obsession, King Oyster Mushrooms (aka royal trumpet mushrooms); a rather bold statement from a former mushroom-hater. I have seen the light of day, and am now a convert -- a full blown mushroom-lover -- well, depending on the variety and how they are prepared. Love when they are roasted until golden brown, and get nice and crispy around the edges.

You can find king oyster mushrooms at most Asian grocery stores (like H-mart). However, I've seen them at the farmers' market as of late. I purchased some a few weeks ago, and they instantly won me over. Had to have more. Went back the following weekend to replenish my supply, and was disappointed to find that the trumpets had sold out by 8:30 a.m. So, set my alarm clock the following weekend, and got to the market nice and early to beat the crowds, and came home with my prize. 

These may be my favorite mushroom, right up there with morels, chanterelles, shiitakes, and maitakes. Unlike certain varieties of mushrooms, the stems (in addition to, of course, the caps) are edible. Have heard king oyster mushrooms described as having a nutty taste. They are great simply tossed in a little olive oil, sea salt, fresh ground black pepper, and fresh herbs (like rosemary), and pan seared, grilled, or roasted in the oven.

Decided to roast some oyster mushrooms in the oven alongside potatoes (a combination of Peruvian purple and Russet) and onions I picked up at the market as well; a rather different approach to meat and potatoes. While there is no meat per se in this dish, trumpet mushrooms have a "meaty" texture, not to mention being rich in umami (Japanese for "pleasant savory taste"). The onions add a nice contrast of sweetness, whereas a sprinkle of hot smoked paprika over the finished dish contributes a hint of smokiness. While not a substitute for a nice roasted leg of lamb, this vegetarian-friendly dish is certain to please vegetarians and carnivores alike.



Oven-Roasted Potatoes with King Oyster Mushrooms
Adapted from Jose Andres's: Tapas-A Taste of Spain in America
serves 4 (as appetizer or small plate [tapa])

2 garlic cloves, smashed with the side of a knife
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1/2 pound potatoes, thinly sliced 1/8 to 1/4-inch thick (skins on)
1 sprig rosemary, leaves removed and chopped
2 tablespoons dry white wine
6 ounces oyster mushrooms, thinly sliced, 1/4-inch thick
1/2 cup chicken stock
1 teaspoon chopped chives, for garnish
Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper
Hot smoked paprika

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.
Add the olive oil and garlic to a ovenproof pan over medium heat. Cook about 2 minutes. Add the onions and cook until they are brown, about 20 minutes (if the onions get to dark, add 1 tablespoon water to cool things down and slow cooking). Add the potato slices, 1/2 teaspoon salt, a few turns of freshly black pepper, and 1/2 of the chopped rosemary. Toss to coat the potatoes.

Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven, add the wine, and return to the oven for 10 minutes.

Remove the pan from the oven, place the mushrooms on top of the potatoes and onions, add the chicken stock, and spoon some of the liquid over the mushrooms. Return to the oven and continue baking for another 20 minutes (basting the mushrooms as needed so the potatoes and mushrooms don't dry out). After 20 minutes, turn up the oven to broil, and bake another 5 minutes, to crisp up the tops of the mushrooms and potatoes.

Remove the pan from the oven. Add the remaining chopped rosemary. Sprinkle the chopped chives on top. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and a sprinkling of hot smoked paprika. Serve hot

Used an assortment of purple Peruvian and Russet potatoes. Love purple vegetables!



Sunday, October 23, 2011

Squash Blossom Soup



Recently, I've been volunteering at the Fresh Farm Market's office. My task: organizing all the recipes they've accumulated over the years from chef demonstrations and cataloging them by season; without question, an ideal job for someone in search of new and interesting recipes. One recipe in particular that piqued my curiosity was for a squash blossom soup, courtesy of Joe Raffa of Oyamel Restaurant in Washington, D.C.  Am always interested in using less familiar ingredients in new and interesting ways such that I was immediately drawn to this soup.

Am accustomed to seeing squash blossoms in late spring and summer, so I made a mental note to tuck this recipe away until next year. However, came across some squash blossoms this past weekend at one of D.C.'s numerous farmers' markets. That's what I love about farmers' markets, you never know what you'll stumble upon from week to week. I love the diversity at the markets. My hope is that farmers' markets continue to grow in popularity and become more accessible to a greater segment of the population, such that one day we can all celebrate and enjoy nature's bounty for generations to come.

Because squash blossoms have a short shelf life (only a day or two at most), I quickly gathered the rest of the ingredients and eagerly went to work in the kitchen.


Typically, I've enjoyed squash blossoms that were battered, stuffed with cheese, and deep fried. However, squash blossoms can also be used in frittattas or casseroles, as a stuffing for crepes or quesadillas, as a topping for pizza, or in soups. Squash blossoms themselves have a rather subtle flavor; however, their aesthetic, floral qualities are undeniably appealing. This soup is delicate in flavor, but the addition of various vegetables -- tomatoes, corn, zuchinni, scallions, chiles (jalapeno, serrano, and poblano), and herbs -- and masa (corn flour -- to thicken the soup), makes for a hearty soup to be enjoyed with some crusty bread.


This soup can be made in stages.

Adapted from Recipe by Joe Raff, Executive Chef at Oyamel Restaurant, Wahington D.C.
Serves 8

Stage 1: Preparing the Soup Base
2 quarts (8 cups) chicken stock
1 small onion, medium dice
1 heaping teaspoon garlic, diced
1 small jalapeno, seeded, diced
Juice of 1/2 lime
1 small bunch cilantro, roughly chopped
1 cup masa (corn flour)
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Heat the oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and saute until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the jalapeno chile and tomatoes, and continue cooking until the chiles are tender and the tomatoes start to break down. Add the cilantro, lime juice, chicken stock, and masa. Turn down the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain and discard the solids. Taste and season the soup base with sea salt. Set aside. At this point you can continue with the rest of the soup or let the base cool, refrigerate it, and save it for another day.


Stage 2: Finishing the Soup
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 scallions thinly sliced, on a bias
6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 to 2 serrano chiles, thinly sliced rounds
1 poblano chile
1/4
teaspoon dried (or fresh) thyme
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 cup corn kernals
1/4 cup zucchini, diced, small cubes
1/4 cup tomato, diced
10 to 11 squash blossoms, chopped 1/4-inch strips

To clean the squash blossoms: Break off the stems, and remove the green sepals at the base of the blossom. Remove the long pistils in the center of each blossom and discard. Soak the blossoms in cold water to remove any debris. With a sharp knife, cut the blossoms crosswise, into about 1/4-inch strips.

Roast the poblano chile directly over a gas flame (or under a broiler). Turn occasionally until blistered and blackened on all sides. Cover with a kitchen towel and let sit for 5 minutes. Peel off the charred skin. Remove the seeds. Dice into 1/4-inch cubes.

Pour the olive oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add the scallions, garlic, serrano chiles, garlic, thyme, and oregano. Saute a few minutes, stirring constantly, until the scallions turn bright green. Be careful not to let the garlic burn. Once the scallions turn green, add the corn, zucchini, tomatoes, poblano chile, chopped squash blossoms, and the soup base. Continue cooking a few more minutes, until the soup is warmed through. Garnish with a few scallions and chopped cilantro. Serve immediately. Buen provecho.


Squash blossoms, cleaned and chopped into 1/4-inch strips.


Saturday, October 22, 2011

Marinated Sardines in Oil-Vinegar and Mint

It's been a little while since my last post on sardines. I know most people are not sardine lovers like myself, but hopefully I can win a few over. Maybe? I've read that you have to try a given food ten times before your taste buds can decide whether they really like the food or not. So, still have a few more attempts to get you to try sardines. If not this preparation, than maybe the next (more sardine recipes on the way).



I love these little guys. Maybe they just remind me of my Mediterranean travels, as I long for lazy summer days on the beach followed by a leisurely meal of fresh fish, seafood, and wine. Maybe it's in my genes? My grandfather loved sardines too; is there a gene for sardines? Or, maybe I'm a sardine addict. Whenever I see a recipe for sardines, I immediately want to make it.

During the warmer months, I love sardines, simply grilled (preferably over charcoal or wood). However, when grilling is not an option, pan searing is next best thing. This preparation is not drastically different from other versions I've made before; but in my book, you can never have too many sardine recipes (still have a few more ideas rattling around in my brain for these guys). Adapted from a Mario Batali recipe, this version is pan fried and then marinated in a sauce of white wine vinegar, olive oil, fresh mint, and garlic. This gives the skin a nice texture, and adds a greater depth of flavor than marinating alone. Enjoy with some crusty bread and a glass of white wine. 

Simplicity at its best. 





Marinated Sardines
3 garlic cloves, crushed
2 teaspoons chopped fresh mint leaves
½ cup white wine vinegar
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound cleaned headless sardines

Flour for dredging (about ¼ cup)

Place the garlic and mint in a small sauce pan with the wine vinegar and set over medium-low heat. As soon as the vinegar starts to boil, lower the heat to below a simmer and let the aromatics steep in the vinegar until you are ready to marinate the fish.

Place the flour in a shallow bowl and add the fish, to lightly coat. Shake off the excess flour.

In a large sauté pan, over medium-high heat, add about ¼ cup olive oil. When hot, add half of the sardines to the pan. Cook about 3 minutes per side, flip, and cook another 3 minutes. Remove the sardines from the pan and drain on a paper towel lined platter. Repeat with the remaining fish.

Add the remaining ¼ cup of olive oil to the vinegar/garlic/mint mixture.

Layer the fish in a glass or ceramic dish and pour the oil/vinegar mixture over the fish. Cover the dish and refrigerate for 2 or 3 days before serving. Although, I also enjoy them served warm, with a bit of the oil-vinegar mixture drizzled over; with some crusty bread.

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Thai-Inspired Tamarind Soup with Shrimp and Vegetables



This colorful bowl of soup was inspired by a dish (Gaeng Som or Hot Sour Curry) that I recently enjoyed at a local Thai restaurant. This weekend finds at a local farmers' market, which featured, among other things, purple and orange cauliflower, fresh young ginger, Napa cabbage, and green beans. This soup strikes just the right balance of flavors to excite all your taste buds -- sour/tart notes from the tamarind, a hint of sweetness from sugar, salinity as a result of the fish sauce, and a welcome kick of spice (but not too much) compliments of Thai chiles.

A lot of Thai dishes contain coconut milk, and while I enjoy coconut milk, sometimes it can be a bit heavy and overwhelm the other flavors in the dish. Particularly enjoy the lightness of this broth, but don't be deceived, it's loaded with flavor thanks to a curry paste made of shallots, garlic, ground shrimp (or shrimp paste), fish sauce, cilantro, lime zest, lemongrass, and Thai chiles, which is infused in a tamarind broth with fresh ginger. You can prepare the broth ahead of time and when you are ready to serve, just warm the broth and add the vegetables and shrimp.



It's not often one gets excited over cauliflower (aka broccoli's ugly cousin); but these are beautiful, I might even say exquisite --so vibrant in color. While I prefer not to focus on the health benefits of food, but rather cooking food that I like and continually seeking out new flavors (which just so happens to be healthy too; shhh, just don't tell), I think there is one rule you can abide by and not go wrong: Eat a variety of colorful food everyday (btw, this doesn't include artificially colored food; just all-natural, as mother nature intended).

These colorful cauliflower are the result of traditional (non-GMO) selective breeding in which   different strains have been cross-bred to create cauliflower of varying colors -- the purple, due to the antioxidant anthocyanin, and the orange due to greater amounts of beta carotene (just in case you were curious).

It does make for a pretty (and tasty) bowl of soup.


An assortment of colorful Thai chiles...


Fresh young ginger (tender and juicy)...


Pounding the shallots, garlic, ground shrimp (or shrimp paste), fish sauce, cilantro, lime zest (or leaves), lemongrass, and Thai chiles to form a paste...


Tamarind Soup with Shrimp and Vegetables
6 tablespoons tamarind paste
1 cup boiling water
2 tablespoons oil
6 slices ginger (thinly slice ~ 1/8 inch thick)
1 quart (4 cups) fish or chicken broth 
1 teaspoon sugar (preferably palm sugar)
1/2 pound shrimp, peeled and cleaned

Curry Paste:
2 shallots, finely chopped
2 tablespoons dried shrimp (ground to a powder) or 1 tablespoon Thai shrimp paste
1/4 cup fish sauce
2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro leaves
5 to 10 Thai chiles, seeds removed, finely chopped (4-5 for a mildly spicy soup, 9-10 for spicy)
3 lime leaves or a 2 inch strip lime zest, chopped
1 piece lemongrass, finely chopped

Vegetables:
Cauliflower, cut into small florets
green beans, whole or halved
Napa cabbage, sliced about ~ 1 inch thick pieces

Note: you can prepare the broth ahead of time.  Add the shrimp and vegetables just before serving.You can also substitute fish (cut into cubes), such as snapper or other firm white fish, for the shrimp.

Combine the tamarind paste with the boiling water. Stir with a whisk to dissolve the tamarind in the water.

Make a paste by pounding the shallots, garlic, ground shrimp (or shrimp paste), fish sauce, cilantro, lime zest (or leaves), lemongrass, and Thai chiles in a mortar and pestle (or food processor).

Heat the oil in a 4-quart pot over medium heat. When hot, add the paste and fry for about 2 minutes. Add the ginger and broth. Strain the tamarind mixture into the soup. Bring to a simmer. When warm, add the cauliflower and green beans. Cook for a few minutes, until just tender. Add the shrimp and cabbage. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes until the shrimp are cooked through.

Serve hot with a side of brown rice.

Friday, October 14, 2011

Whole Smoked Mackerel



My ancestors hail from Poland and Russia, and while I am certain that there is good food to be found in these countries, it was absent from my dinner plate while growing up. Much of the food I remember having was bland and woefully underseasoned (don't worry, my mother doesn't read my blog; she doesn't quite get my style of cooking). Notwithstanding, one thing I do remember being exposed to, and liking quite a bit, was smoked fish (gravlax, smoked sable, salmon, and whitefish). While living in Chicago I made numerous trips to Rich's Deli, a great little Polish market my friend Ewa ( the w is pronounced as v in Polish) introduced me to, for their whole smoked mackerel. Since I haven't been able to find whole smoked mackerel in the DC area, decided to smoke one at home.

I recently found a small Cameron stove stop smoker on sale at Sur La Table. Have used it several times for smoking sockeye salmon with great success. Smoking whole fish works just as well. It doesn't get much easier than this. Just pick out your favorite wood chips (used hickory, but alder or cherry would be nice too), salt the fish (stuff with fresh herbs if you like, used a few rosemary sprigs), lightly oil the grate so the fish doesn't stick, set the fish inside, and smoke for about 20 to 25 minutes.

If you lack confidence when it comes to cooking whole fish, smoking it makes the process a snap. You don't have to worry about the fish sticking to the pan or overcooking it. Whole smoked fish come out perfectly cooked and extremely moist. In addition, your home will smell like a wood burning oven/fireplace for several days thereafter. 

Should one be leery that a whole mackerel costs a mere $2.50 (at H mart)? Am often amazed by how inexpensive whole fish cost. Don't need it all nicely shrink wrapped and packaged. In fact, I like knowing where my food came from, head, bones, and eyeballs included.


Great on top of rye crackers (just beware of the tiny bones), with a sprinkling of fresh chives.


Or on top of a salad (with a little miso vinaigrette). Those are sea beans on top of the salad (a recent find at, of all places, Safeway).

Miso Vinaigrette
1 tablespoons miso
1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon water
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1 small garlic clove, pounded with a bit of sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger
fresh ground black pepper to taste

 In a small bowl, add all the dressing ingredients. Whisk until the miso is well incorporated.



Smoking the mackerel in my Cameron stove top smoker...Next time, I plan on making a smoked mackerel spread to have with some crusty bread.


Whole Smoked Mackerel
1 13-ounce mackerel
11/2 to 2 tablespoons hickory, alder, or cherry wood chips (depending on desired level of smokiness)
couple sprigs fresh herbs (like rosemary, thyme, savory)
Olive oil
Sea salt

Place 11/2 to 2 tablespoons of wood chips in the bottom of smoker. Place the tray on top. With a brush, lightly oil the grate so the fish doesn't stick

Salt the fish, inside the cavity and outside (stuff with some fresh herbs if you like, used a few rosemary sprigs).  Place the smoker on your stovetop over medium heat for a few minutes to heat up (when you see the first signs of smoke it's ready). Set the fish inside, then smoke for about 22-25 minutes (depending on the size of your fish). Approximately 22 minutes for an 11-12 ounce fish; 25 minutes for a 13-14 ounce fish. Serve with the grill mark-side up.

Friday, October 7, 2011

Soft Shell Crab Sandwich


While I've spent the past 10 years in Chicago (wow, time really flies), am an East Coaster all the way. Grew up in Maryland, attended the University of Maryland (go Terps!), and love the Chesapeake blue crab (in my humble opinion, the best type of crab; maybe I'm a bit biased). Chesapeake blue crab is the one thing I missed the most while living in Chicago -- not a lot of local seafood, let alone blue crabs, to be found in Chicago).

Nothing better than a warm summer day, a bushel of crabs, and cold beer. Love getting dirty and digging out every last morsel of crab meat with my bare hands. The difference between soft shell and hard shell crabs? Basically, soft shell crabs have molted their shell. I've been eyeing them at the Dupont Farmers' Market for the past few months, but never had a game plan for what to do with them. After a little contemplation, I went for it, purchased my first soft shell crab, and couldn't wait to go home and prepare it. And...it was better than I imagined! Why did it take me so long to discover soft shell crabs??


I prepared the soft shell crab very simply -- lightly dredged in flour, a little salt and pepper, and pan seared until crispy. Placed the crab on a homemade pita (with za'atar) and topped it with shredded purple cabbage (minimally dressed with a squeeze of lime and a little sea salt), homemade aioli, and a few slices of heirloom tomatoes. Kept the condiments simple to ensure that the crab was the star of the show.

Might have to get another crab at the market on Sunday.


This is one messy sandwich, but oh so good...


Soft Shell Crab Sandwich
Soft shell crab, cleaned
All-purpose flour for dredging
Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper
1/4 cup oil
Homemade pita (refer to this post)
Homemade aioli (refer to this post)
Tomatoes, sliced

1/2 head purple cabbage, shredded (used a mandoline)
Squeeze of lime
Sea salt

Place the cabbage in a bowl. Squeeze half a lime over the cabbage. Season with salt. Mix to incorporate. Set in the refrigerator to chill.

Dredge the crab(s) in flour. Shake off excess flour. Season with salt and pepper. 

Heat a large saute pan over high heat for 1 minute. Add the oil. When hot (but not smoking) turn the heat down to medium, lay the crab(s) in the pan, soft-shell side down. Cook over medium heat for 5 to 7 minutes. When the first side is crisp, turn the crab(s) over and cook another 3 minutes, until cooked through. Remove the crab(s) from the pan, and drain on a towel-lined plate.

Assemble the sandwich. Place a few slices of tomato on the pita, followed by the crab. Top with cabbage, aioli, and a squeeze of lime. Bon appetit!

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Za'atar Pita Breads


Have been residing in Washington, D.C. for a few months now, and am slowly discovering new markets to shop for ingredients. Last weekend I discovered a great little specialty market,Yekta Deli and Imported Grocery (Rockville, MD), which specializes in Middle Eastern foodstuff. I love, love, love small independent ethnic grocery stores. Instead of your typical grocery store, where you find aisle upon aisle of processed foods, including an entire one devoted solely to breakfast cereals, you will find just the essentials (typically lots of fresh produce, legumes, rice, breads, dairy...); the staples for creating great meals from scratch.

I went there in search of za'atar -- a spice mixture typically comprised of thyme (sometimes oregano or majoram), toasted sesame seeds, salt, and sumac. Sumac comes from the fruit of the shrub, Rhus coriaria; its fruit is ground into a deep-red-purple powder used as a common spice in Middle Eastern cuisine. Sumac provides a tangy lemon flavor, and is commonly used in place of lemon in Middle Eastern dishes; as it is thought to have a greater depth of flavor than lemon (love the citrus notes).



Za'atar mixed with olive oil on homemade pita breads is a great way to start your day. It's traditionally served for breakfast, often with some thick yogurt (Greek-style), and a couple slices of tomato. However, its uses do not stop there. You can use za'atar on roast chicken, fish, meat, kabobs, eggs, in salads, added to hummus...will definitely do some experimenting with za'atar in the near future.


Breakfast of za'atar pita bread, Greek-style yogurt, and heirloom tomatoes (Cherokee Purple, and Red Zebra) from my local farmers' market...hits the spot.



Homemade Pita with Za'atar
makes 7 pitas
1 teaspoon dry yeast (used instant yeast)
1 1/4 cups lukewarm water
3 cups flour (3 cups all-purpose, or a mixture of half whole-wheat, half all-purpose)
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
olive oil


Note: if using half whole wheat, you may need to add a little extra water.


In a bowl dissolve the yeast in the water. Stir in the flour and salt. Mix until incorporated. Transfer to a floured work surface and knead the dough for about 10 minutes until smooth and the dough bounces back when you push into it. Drizzle the dough with olive oil and place in a warm spot covered with a damp towel or plastic wrap. Let rise until the dough doubles in size, depending on the temperature, it could take 30 minutes to 1 1/2 hours.


 Preheat the oven (with a pizza stone) to 500 degrees for at least 30 minutes. Alternatively, you can bake on a cookie sheet.


Divide the dough into 7 pieces (~3 1/2 ounces each). Take the first piece (keep the rest covered) and roll out the dough to 1/4-inch thick (approximately 7 inches in diameter). Take a fork and pierce the dough all over, releasing any air pockets. Spread 1 to 2 tablespoons za'atar over each pita dough. Place 3 to 4 pitas on the hot pizza stone (I find placing them on the back of a lightly floured cookie sheet makes it easier to slide onto the stone). Bake until golden on the bottom and a little golden on the top, about 5-7 minutes. Serve with thick Greek-style yogurt and slices of  tomatoes.


Za'atar Mixture
1/2 cup za'atar
1/4 cup olive oil

Mix the za'atar and olive oil in a bowl and set aside.