Lamb Rules!

Once in a while I feel the need to indulge in a big hunk of meat. When I prepare meat, I like to know that the animal has been raised sustainably and that I am supporting a small, local farm. This 5 1/2-pound shank end, bone-in leg of lamb came from Mint Creek Farm in Stelle, Illinois. Mint Creek sheep are 100% grass-fed on farm-raised alfalfa, clover, and perennial grasses, and are never placed in feed lots or given hormones. Their sheep, grazing on grasses in the great outdoors, are lean, fit, healthy, and delicious. Due to their grazing on indigenous grasses, the meat has a pleasant, but not overpowering, earthiness.

With such a great cut of meat, there is not much that needs to be done to prepare a superb dish. This lamb is prepared simply, slow-braised for about four hours, with lots of fresh rosemary, thyme, garlic (20 cloves), and red wine (an earthy French table wine). Wish I could bottle the fragrance that overtook my entire apartment as it was braising, intoxicating. The fresh herbs, garlic, and red wine come together to form a comforting and deeply satisfying sauce.

Typically, most recipes call for a 7-hour braised leg of lamb. However, seven hours is way too long. A recent New York Time's article explained that the 7-hour recipe was originally devised for animals that were older, larger, and tougher than today’s lamb. With modern meat, four to five hours is plenty. Also, due to the fact that the Mint Creek sheep are allowed to roam freely outdoors, they are leaner than factory farmed lamb and, thereby, require a shorter cooking time.

To prepare the lamb you will need:
1 5 1/2-pound shank end, bone-in leg of lamb
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 bottle red wine
20 garlic cloves
10 sprigs fresh rosemary
10 sprigs fresh thyme
5 bay leaves
Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper

 5 1/2-pound shank end, bone-in leg of lamb

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Rub the lamb with olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Heat a large pot or Dutch oven (used a 5 1/2 quart) over medium-high heat. Sear the lamb, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer the lamb to a plate.

Add the wine and 2 cups of water to the Dutch oven. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits on the bottom of the Dutch oven. Add the garlic and herbs, and then return the lamb to the Dutch oven, fatty side up. Cover and roast in the oven, basting frequently. Turn lamb over after 45 minutes and every 30 minutes thereafter, basting frequently until lamb is tender enough to cut with a serving spoon.

 After four hours, perfection! Let the lamb rest for 10 to 15 minutes and dig in.

This photo is not from a local Illinois farm, but rather was taken as I was driving through the mountains in Crete, Greece. Not everyday you see sheep wandering in the middle of the road holding up traffic.

Chocolate Rugelach (Rugala)

Having grown up in New York, there are several foods that stick out in my mind -- hot pastrami sandwiches, bagels and smoked fish, egg creams, and rugelach. Rugelach originated in Eastern Europe, a Jewish pastry of Ashkenazic origin. In Yiddish, rugelach translates into "little twists." Some believe that rugelach originated in Poland. Other accounts claim the pastry originated to commemorate the expulsion of the Turks from Austria in 1793. Food historians point out that the crescent shape of the pastry mirrored the emblem of the Ottoman Empire.

I remember gathering at my aunt's house during the holiday season; there would always be a couple of bakery boxes filled with pastries, usually rugelach (an assortment of cinnamon/nut and chocolate), and marble mandel bread. My favorite was always the chocolate rugelach [I also remember using the string that was wrapped around the pastry boxes to play a game called "Cats Cradle."]. That was nearly 20 years ago. In my mind I have an idea of what the rugelach of my childhood tastes like, but it has been so long that it's difficult to distinguish between reality and fond memories.

That was until a few years ago, when, one day, I was chatting with my aunt about rugelach. I was attempting to figure out where she used to buy the chocolate rugelach and whether the bakery was still in business. A few days later, I received a package in the mail. It was a box of rugelach from the legendary New York bakery, Zomick's. What a nice gesture, but I have to be honest, they were nothing like what I remembered. There was not much of a chocolate presence, and the dough was dry, rather than moist and flaky. Maybe the quality was not the same as it used to be, or maybe my tastes have just changed. Nonetheless, I felt inspired to try my hand at rugelach.

It's actually quite easy to make homemade rugelach. You can fill them with any number of items: fruit preserves, raisins, walnuts, cinnamon, marzipan, poppy seed, etc. But, I prefer chocolate, particularly dark chocolate. These came out crispy, but flaky, and were loaded with dark chocolate (I used 72% cacao and added a bit more chocolate than the recipe called for). I made a batch and sent some to my aunt to sample. She said they were the best rugelach she ever tasted :-)

Makes 4 dozen rugelach

DOUGH:

7 ounces unsalted butter

8 ounces cream cheese

1/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 cups all-purpose flour

CHOCOLATE FILLING:

1 tablespoon cocoa

1 tablespoon cinnamon

1/3 cup sugar

6 ounces dark chocolate (I used 72%)

Butter, melted

TOPPING:

(before baking)

1 egg
1/4 cup sugar

(after baking)

Melted chocolate for drizzling 

Powdered sugar

Using a mixer, cream the butter and cream cheese together. Add the sugar and vanilla, and mix until smooth. Add the flour and mix lightly. Refrigerate dough for at least 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Divide the dough into four balls. Leave one ball out and place the remaining three back in the refrigerator. On a floured surface, using a floured rolling pin, roll one ball out into a circle until approximately 10 1/2 inches in diameter.

In a small bowl, mix the cocoa, cinnamon, sugar, grated chocolate. Spread a thin layer of melted butter on the dough. Sprinkle the cinnamon, cocoa, sugar, and chocolate mixture on top. Cut the pastry into pie-shaped wedges, about 1 to 1 1/2 inches wide. Each piece of dough should yield 12 individual rugelach. Roll each piece, starting at the wide edge of the wedge and roll the dough up toward the point.
 

Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. Place each pastry, seam side down on the paper.
Make an egg wash by combining one egg and 1 teaspoon of water. Brush each pastry with the egg wash. Sprinkle with sugar. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until golden.

When cool, drizzle with melted chocolate and sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Added a bit more chocolate drizzling, just to make sure they had enough. 

Coconut Pie or Coconut Cake?

I love coconut. I especially love fresh coconut (fresh coconut water too). In the past week, I made two very different coconut desserts. The first, an always reliable and delicious [Rick Bayless] Yucatan-style fresh coconut pie; the second, a "raw" chocolate-coconut cake (I was initially on the fence about the latter, but when I brought it to work people seemed to like it -- or maybe they were just being polite). As I nibbled on the raw cake some more, it started to grow on me such that I now really like it. Both have lots of fresh coconut, so I guess you really can't go wrong, but my vote goes to the coconut pie drizzled with dark chocolate (or maybe the raw chocolate-coconut cake). I'm so indecisive!

Am typically inclined to make everything from scratch. Case in point: I got up at 5:30 this morning so I could make this pie for Patrick's work holiday party. Probably not on most peoples' agenda first thing in the morning. But in the wee hours of the morning, I was busy grinding, toasting, melting, and baking. But, this really is a delicious pie, and deserves to be shared with others.

First things first, you have to open the coconut. I did this a day in advance, which made the pie/cake making process a snap.

It's not as difficult as you might think to open a coconut. Start by twisting a cork screw (or a screwdriver) into the eye (the dark indentations on one end) of the coconut. Drain the coconut water into a glass.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Place the coconuts onto a baking sheet and roast in the oven for about 15 minutes to help loosen the flesh from the shell. While the coconuts are in the oven, enjoy a glass of fresh coconut water, nature's ultimate sports drink (be sure to reserve one glass for the coconut pie).

Once out of the oven, it's time to open the coconut. I first tried opening the coconut with a screwdriver and hammer, but the coconut did not budge. Next, a bit perplexed and frustrated, I proceeded to give the coconut a few good whacks with the hammer. Voilà, the coconut cracked right in half.

With a knife, trim the dark brown skin from the coconut flesh. Place the coconut into a food processor and process until you have coconut flakes. Alternatively, you can grate the coconut with a box grater (a bit more work than the food processor).

Rick Bayless' Yucatan Coconut Pie

Rick Bayless' Yucatan Coconut Pie

Crust

1 cup (4 ounces) slivered almonds

3 tablespoons sugar

4 ounces (about 5 slices) firm white bread, torn into pieces

3 1/2 tablespoons (about 1 3/4 ounces) unsalted butter, melted

Filling

 1 medium-size coconut with lots of liquid inside (shredded as described above)

 1 cup heavy (whipping) cream

 2/3 cup sugar

 3 large egg yolks

 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Dark chocolate (used 70% cacao) for drizzling on top

To assemble the pie:

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Toast the almonds on a baking sheet in the oven, stirring occasionally until golden, 7 to 10 minutes. Set 1/2 cup of the almonds aside. In a food processor, pulverize the remaining almonds with the sugar. Add the bread and pulse the machine until reduced to fine crumbs. Drizzle in the melted butter and pulse to mix thoroughly. Evenly pat the mixture over the bottom and sides of a 3/4-inch deep, 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Refrigerate several minutes to set.

Measure out 2 1/2 cups of coconut for the pie; reserve the remainder for the garnish. Raise the oven temperature to 350 degrees. In a small saucepan, combine the coconut water, cream, and sugar. Simmer over medium heat, stirring frequently until reduced to 1 cup, about 10 to 15 minutes. Pour into a large bowl, then stir in the 2 1/2 cups of coconut, the reserved 1/2 cup almonds, the egg yolks, and vanilla. Set the prepared crust onto a baking sheet, scoop in the coconut filling and bake in the middle of the oven until set and lightly browned on top, 30 to 35 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.

While the pie is baking, toast the reserved coconut on a baking sheet in the oven or in a pan on the stovetop, stirring occasionally until nicely browned, 7 to 10 minutes.

Melt the chocolate and drizzle on top of the cake.

"Raw" Chocolate-Coconut Cake 
Disclaimer: for anyone out there who is looking for a completely raw cake, I've deviated by adding toasted coconut on top (otherwise, it's completely raw).

"Raw" Chocolate-Coconut Cake

Crust

1/3 cup pecans
1/3 cup macadamia nuts
2 tablespoons agave syrup
1 tablespoon coconut oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 teaspoons cacao powder
1/4 teaspoon salt

Filling

2 cups fresh coconut, shredded
3/4 cup coconut oil
1/2 cup cashew butter
1/2 cup cacao powder
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1/4 cup agave syrup
1/4 cup maple syrup
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt

For the crust, in a food processor, process the dry ingredients first (nuts, cinnamon, cacao powder, and salt). Then add the agave, coconut oil, and vanilla extract, and process until combined. Take the mixture out and press it into the bottom of a 7-inch springform cake pan. Put the pan in the freezer to set while you work on the filling. 

For the filling, add all the ingredients to the food processor and process until combined. 

To assemble the cake, take the crust out of the freezer. Spoon the filling into the springform pan. Place in the freezer for a few hours, or in the refrigerator overnight to allow the cake to set.

Spaghetti with Sea Urchin, Razor Clams, Squid, and Shrimp

The connection between food and memory is powerful. Most of my fondest food memories are from experiences later in life, including recent Mediterranean travels, as food was not a big deal in my family growing up (and I've been trying to make up for it ever since). The first time I had sea urchin was in Chania, Crete, at a restaurant called Waves on the Rock. To reach Waves, you have to travel down a windy road, passing a couple of mountain goats along the way, finally ending up on a fairly deserted beach with postcard-perfect water. And the food at Waves...so incredibly fresh, like it jumped right out of the Sea of Crete and on to your plate. This is a place where I am truly happy! Whenever I taste sea urchin (uni), with its subtle but briny flavor, it brings me back to this place. 

At Waves, they serve a big plate of sea urchin in its own liquid.

Sea Urchin at Waves

The View from Waves

Not surprisingly, sea urchin tastes best when first harvested. However, living in the Midwest, this of course is not possible. I tracked down some sea urchin (via California), at H Mart, an Asian grocery store in a Chicago suburb. While perusing the fish counter at H Mart, I also spotted some razor clams. Have never seen razor clams anywhere in Chicago, be it a grocery store or a restaurant. After a recent trip to Spain, where I tasted razor clams for the first time (and many times thereafter), I was pleasantly surprised to find some in Chicago. Needless to say, I scooped up a dozen (a steal at $4.99/pound). Sea urchin and razor clams, what a treat.   

To prepare this dish you will need (serving for two):
1/2 pound of spaghetti (or bucatini)
6 razor clams (or your favorite variety)
1 dozen shrimp, cleaned and deveined
1/3 pound of squid, sliced into approximately 1/2 inch rings
1/2 tray sea urchin (and a few pieces for a delicious garnish)
4 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme for garnish
Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

Cook the clams in about 1/2 cup of water until cooked. Reserve the liquid. Remove the clams from their shells and set aside.

Boil and salt water to cook the pasta. Cook the pasta until it is about 3/4 of the way cooked. Remove the pasta from the water, and reserve the cooking liquid.

Heat the olive oil in a large pan over medium heat. When hot, add the garlic and red pepper flakes. Saute until the garlic is lightly browned, then add a large ladle of pasta water to the pan with the garlic.

Add the pasta to the pan with the garlic. A minute or two before the pasta has finished cooking, add the shrimp, squid, clams, and reserved cooking liquid from the clams. 

Remove from the heat and toss with the sea urchin. Garnish with a sprinkle of fresh thyme. Serve immediately.

The urchin and pasta water combine to form a creamy, slightly briny sauce, that will make you want to lick the plate clean.

 

Octopus Two Ways: A La Gallega & Spicy Taco Roll

Pulpo a la Gallega (Octopus Cooked in the Galician Style)
I love pulpo (octopus), be it grilled, boiled, baked, or braised in tomato sauce (I'm not aware of any other preparations [fried is not an option] at present). This particular preparation, known as Pulpo a la Gallega -- which is seasoned with sea salt, olive oil, and pimenton (smoked paprika) -- is inspired by a recent trip to Spain. I ate this dish dozens of times as we drove across the northern coast of Spain, from San Sebastian to Galicia, and down Spain's western coast. In Spain, unlike Greece, octopus is typically served boiled instead of grilled. For those of you who have never had octopus, when cooked properly, octopus should be slightly chewy but very tender. If undercooked, the meat will be quite tough and leave you with a tired jaw by the end of the meal.

That being said, it's not hard to cook octopus.

All you have to do is boil or bake the octopus for about 1 to 1 1/4 hours. I've tried boiling and baking the octopus with equal success. Most recipes I've seen say to boil the octopus in the following manner: drop the octopus into boiling water for a minute or two, remove from the water and let cool, repeat two more times, then simmer for an hour. However, according to my local fishmonger, the key to cooking octopus (and the way chefs cook octopus in Chicago's Greektown restaurants) is to bake it in the oven. So, the past few times, I have baked the octopus (covered with foil) in the oven at 375 degrees. The resulting octopus is perfectly tender.

Alternatively, I have also cooked the octopus on the stovetop with equal success. Just place the octopus in a large pot or dutch oven, add about a tablespoon of olive oil, and cook covered, over low-medium heat, for 1 to 1 1/4 hours for a larger 4-pound octopus and 45 minutes to an 1 hour for a smaller 2-pound octopus.

Note: save the broth that is created with cooking of the octopus. It makes for a flavorful broth to pour over rice or barley; or great for a seafood risotto.

Bought a 4-pound octopus at the local fish market (Isaacson & Stein) the other day. The octopus comes cleaned and is previously frozen. Freezing the octopus and then letting it thaw is actually a good thing, as this helps to tenderize the otherwise tough meat. Otherwise, beating the octopus on some rocks and then hanging it on a clothesline to dry in the sun is an option (not so much here in Chicago, maybe when I move to Crete).

To prepare Pulpo a la Gallega, after the octopus has been baked/boiled and is cool enough to handle:

Slice the tentacles into approximately 1/4 inch slices;

Lay the pieces on a plate. I used a traditional wooden plate that I picked up in Santiago de Compostela;

Finish the dish with a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, pimenton, and course sea salt.

This dish is best enjoyed while still warm and with a glass of albarino.

Spicy Tako (Octopus) Spring Rolls 
Had a bit of octopus left over from my Pulpo a la Gallega, even after nibbling on it for the past few days (sometimes even for breakfast). So, I decided to get a bit creative, and used the leftover octopus to make spicy tako spring rolls. I finely diced the octopus and tossed it with some homemade spicy ailoi and smoked, hot Spanish paprika (see post, Ailoi: Not Your Typical Mayo).



These rolls are so simple to make. Take a spring roll wrapper and soak it in water until it becomes soft. Next, lay the wrapper on a flat work space and add some collard green leaves (stems removed). Add chopped cilantro and diced peppers (I used trinadad, but jalapeno would add a nice kick as well). Add a good amount of octopus on top of the collard greens. Fold in the right and left sides, and then roll up tightly. Use a little bit of water to seal the spring wrappers closed. Slice into approximately 1-inch pieces.

Chipotles en Escabeche

Woke up around 6:30 a.m. this Wednesday morning, December 2, and was inspired to whip up a batch of pickled chipotles (courtesy of Rick Bayless). Isn't this what everybody does when they wake up in the morning? This condiment is made with morita chile peppers, which are smoke-dried jalapenos, and has a nice balance of heat, sweetness (from the brown sugar), tanginess, and saltiness. You can buy canned chipotles in adobo sauce (made from chiles, tomatoes, and garlic), but these guys have a depth of flavor that keeps you coming back for more.

There are two types of chipotles, the reddish- purple morita and the tan/coffee-colored ahumado (aka chile meco). While this condiment is traditionally made with the morita variety, you can substitute chile mecos.

The pickled chipotles will be a nice addition to the fish tacos that I intend to make in the coming days -- after the flavors marinate for a few days. Pickled chipotles are, not surprisingly, also great in sandwiches, eggs, sauteed vegetables (such as broccoli), or simply eaten on their own (watch out, they are ADDICTIVE). This recipe is a snap to make and will last a few weeks in the refrigerator (if there are any left that is).

4 ounces morita peppers
1 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
4 sprigs of thyme (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)
4 sprigs of marjoram (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)
3 bay leaves
1 medium white onion, slice 1/4 inch thick
1 head of garlic, cloves peeled and halved
Kosher salt, about 2 teaspoons

Place chiles in a a small to medium sized saucepan, cover with water and bring to a rolling boil. Drain the water, cover with warm tap water, and lay a small plate on top of the chiles to keep them submerged for 10 minutes. Drain, cover again with warm water, lay the plate on top, and let stand another 10 minutes. Drain off most of the water. Transfer to a jar.

In the saucepan, combine all remaining ingredients with 1 1/4 cups of water. Bring to a gentle simmer and stir until the sugar is completely dissolved. Pour the hot liquid over the chiles. The liquid should completely submerge the chiles. If there's not enough liquid to cover the chiles, add equal parts water and cider vinegar. Cover and refrigerate a day or more before serving.  Cheers.